Better Than Barefoot

Hoof Armor  Application Sequence:

Any type of trim can be done including natural rollovers, mustang roll, etc. The preferred trim; the HoofArmor Trimming Technique, is available on DVD. Paring the sole is not recommended:

The hoof should be freshly rasped, sanded or wire brushed:

Isopropyl alcohol (available at any pharmacy department) should by applied to remove moisture and oils from the hoof:

The hoof should be dried and warmed with a variable heat gun set at around 250° F. (regular heat guns are very hot and should be held at least 8" away from the hoof. A hot hair dryer (1875 watt) should be adequate):

Lift the silver lever to install the 4:1 bayonet from the front; ratchet side down. To stop the flow of HoofArmor in the dispenser, push up on the silver lever underneath and pull back the bayonet:

Apply a THIN bead of HoofArmor to the hoof wall. HoofArmor can be applied to the sole for immediate protection and to grow thicker sole for future stone protection:

A spatula is included in the kit to spread the HoofArmor to the desired thickness. Only a thin coating is required:

A variable heat gun set at 250° F should be used to cure the HoofArmor. Gel time is 1 to 3 minutes depending on heat source. Regular heat guns, (available at any hardware store paint department) at 700° F are very hot and should be held at least 8" away from the hoof. Rule of thumb: if it's too hot for your hand holding the hoof, it's too hot for a HoofArmor cure. A hot hair dryer at 1875 watt is about the right temperature. HoofArmor will set up at ambient temperature without heat, but takes longer, 10 minutes+ at ambient. In this case the hoof can be put down in sand or soft dirt which will keep the HoofArmor adhered to the hoof.

As a precaution, if the HoofArmor is not completely dry to the touch, it is recommended to avoid concrete or rubber mats with a HoofArmored hoof for at least one hour if possible.

- Use denatured alcohol to remove moisture and oils from hoof. Acetone leaves a film. Do not put iodine products, hoof oils and dressings from application surface.

-Warm and dry hoof before applying coating. Use an adjustable heat gun set @ 200-250 degrees F. to cure. Most easily available heat guns are very hot and must be kept at a distance (4”-6”) from the hoof. If it’s too hot for your hand holding the hoof, it’s too hot for HoofArmor. HoofArmor® is designed to cure at room temperature and has successfully been applied without heat curing, although it takes longer (10 minutes+ at 70° F). A hot (1875W) hair dryer set on high heat-low air will work.

- As I’ve always had trouble keeping from using my hands, I’ve been wearing that a pair of rubber gloves and found that using my gloved finger to rub the HoofArmor into the sole gives me the right thickness and cures quicker.

-If horse will not stand long enough, a dusting of talc or similar powder on uncured base will prevent adhesion loss. Also, hoof can be put down in sand or soft dirt. This will adhere to outside of coating, but Hoof Armor® will still adhere to hoof and dirt will wear off.

-If the HoofArmor did not get completely dry to the touch, avoid coated hoof from contact with concrete, rubber, or other hard surface for I hour.

- If desired or necessary due to riding or surface conditions, additional coatings can be applied after simply wiping the base coat with water or alcohol, drying and reapplying.

Maybe:

-The heat gun is too cool: the ideal temperature is 250 degrees F. A good 1875 hair dryer is around 240 degrees and is just about right.

-The heat gun is too hot or too close: a non-variable heat gun is generally around 500 to 700 degrees and must be held about 6” from the surface. If this is held too close the HoofArmor will cure, but the surface will remain tacky.

Maybe:

-The surface was not properly prepared: HoofArmor will stick to whatever it is applied to - loose sole, dust, or dirt. Wire brush the surface, wash with alcohol spray and repeat. 

-Also, I’ve found that trying to apply too thick a coating of HoofArmor will peel. As HoofArmor is embedded into the top layer of the sole, HoofArmor only needs to be applied in a very thin coating.

Maybe:

- HoofArmor is a thin, clear coating that may not appear shiny after awhile, particularly if it has been abraded from dirt and sand. However, as the HoofArmor is embedded in the sole, it should still be protecting. If the surface is wetted, it should appear shinier than a normal hoof, showing that the HoofArmor is still on.